Avalanche Lake

Monday, July 14. Avalanche Lake has always been the standard by which we have judged all other hikes, views, and experiences. I am so excited to tell you al about our visit to it today. But first, a question: How many of you have ever been hit full-on with a blast of bear spray?

Soooooooooooooo, we got to the end of our hike, and we were getting ready to get in the car, and a few of us were heading for the restroom, and suddenly, there was a tickle in my throat. Nothing bad, just a little tickle. Coughed a bit. Then more. And more. And even more. And then, suddenly, I couldn't breathe. My eyes and throat and nose and tongue were on fire. And I thought I was going to die. I turned back and tried to warn people off, but I couldn't speak. I tried to grab a deep breath, but breathing made it even worse. I had just a short irrational moment when I thought, “Boy, golly, a remote wilderness park sure is a strange place for a biological weapon attack.” And I thought I was going to die. But then I realized that some genius had discharged their bear spray. Probably thought it was bear repellent and was spraying it on their clothing. After all, you spray bug spray on yourself to keep the bugs away, right? The awesomest part was when the parents in the family ahead of me gave the most disparaging look, like, “Why is this jackass coughing so ridiculously loud like he's about to barf up a lung?” And then the cloud hit their children first, and they started coughing just like me. And then the parents looked at them so disparagingly, like, “Why are you imitating this jackass who is coughing so ridiculously loud that he sounds like he's about to barf up a lung?” And so I got back to the truck, and got water poured into my eyes and even up my nose and rinsed and spit and it was just soooooooooooooooo much fun. And so here's the short version: Bear spray is the real monkeyfighting deal. I am so glad I carry this with me. Because if a bear is attacking me and gets hit with this, it is going to think it is going to die. And it will wonder why someone has chosen a remote wilderness park for a biological weapon attack. And it is going to forget all about me. Unless I accidentally blast myself, in which case it is going to die laughing, and not think I'm even worth the trouble.

Avalanche Lake, 2014

Avalanche Lake, 2009

Our first visit to Glacier National Park was in 2003. We arrived here in West Glacier, and the first hike we went on was the hike that the rangers most highly recommended to us: Avalanche Lake. I don't recall exactly how many days we were here, but I do remember the next few successive days and nights: One night, as we looked toward the park, we could see a glow beyond the hills; the next day and night, we could see the flames on the hill nearer to us; and, on the morning of the third day of the fire, we woke to a smoke-filled campground, were told that the park had been closed, and we had to evacuate. (Side note: the drought and fire of 2003, which began while we were here, continued through September. By the end of it, 136,000 acres burned, and this week we have hiked through much of what people here simply call "The Burn.") But before any of that happened in 2003, we went on the hike to Avalanche Lake. It is a hike that takes you on a not-exactly-easy uphill stroll through some truly beautiful woods. And then, at the top, the forest suddenly, unexpectedly opens into this paradise of water and stone. A beautiful lake, sitting in a cirque, with 500-foot-high waterfalls everywhere.

This is our fourth time in Glacier, and we have been here for 10 days and have seen some amazing sights. But Avalanche Lake still takes our breath away. On our first visit, Gabe was two years old, and Dad took a photo (on film! that had to be developed!) of Gabe, Liz, and I standing on a rock not far from the shore of the lake. In 11 years, we have added two more children, and have always taken this family photo.

Mom & Izzie, 2009

Mom & Izzie, 2014

The Avalanche hike is 3 miles each way, and it is 600 feet of elevation gain. Not a slog, not a schlep, exactly, but enough to let you know you are working for it. My favorite part of the hiking part of the hike is saying to the uphill hikers, “Man, the second part of this hike is waaayyyy better than the first half.” It is an interesting benchmark, as it lets you know how other people are doing. Some happily say, “Yeah, I can't wait for that!” While others don't respond in quite such a positive manner. 

Kieran's uphill quote for the day: "I'm not a happy hiker, but I'm not going to complain." Sold.

Glacier isn't the only place I want to visit, but I think I can safely say that it is my favorite. We have spent 10 wonderful days here and have seen nearly everything we could ever want to see. In the morning we move to an overnight stop in Washington State, and will spend the following four days enjoying at two other mountains, Rainier and St. Helens.